Correspondent photo by STEVEN S. ROSS
Little Potato and Sweet Potato Latkes
Latkes
Hanukkah Gluten-Free Latkes
Correspondent photo by STEVEN S. ROSS
By RACHEL ELLNER Correspondent
Of all the recipes related to the African Diaspora in the “Vegan Soul Food Kitchen” cookbook, the one for latkes is clearly a departure. It’s a recipe for a sweet potato-banana pancake inspired, according to author Bryant Terry, by the potato latkes served at Saul’s deli in Berkeley, Calif.
How did a Jewish delicacy associated with Hanukkah come to infiltrate a cookbook of vegan interpretations of the African-American experience? What does it mean for devourers of the golden brown fritters made fluffy and light with eggs, a key ingredient shunned by vegans? Do vegan latkes stray too far from the faith?
Not according to Rabbi Joshua Segal, of Congregation Betenu in Amherst.
“What makes latkes latkes is that they are fried in oil,” he says. “Potatoes are an issue. It’s November (or early December) and there’s no fresh vegetables, no fresh fruits. Grandma took potatoes from the storage bin and fried them in a way that’s special.”
On Hanukkah, which this year starts Friday night, the making of fried dishes such as latkes is a tradition connected to the victory of a band of Jewish rebels called the Macabees, over the forces of Hellenistic King Antiochus of Syria 2,200 years ago. To celebrate the rededication of the desecrated holy temple, legend has it, enough consecrated olive oil was found to light the alter flame for one day. Instead, it lasted eight days. So why not eat fried food for the eight days of Hanukkah?
Of course, latkes are also classic deli food – on the menu year round. David Saks, author of “Save the Deli,” notes that the infiltration is in both directions: Latkes may turn up in a soul food recipe book, but traditional Jewish delis across the country often depend now on African-American customers. The custom of pan-frying and deep-frying exists among both groups. And as all negotiators know, relations are strengthened and agreements more likely across a table full of fried comfort foods.
Says Rabbi Susan Silverman, who grew up in Bedford and now lives in Israel, “I’m going to make this latke recipe for Hanukkah in celebration of the increasing number of African-American Jews, and as a statement for a new kind of kashrut (law) – one that honors Jewish ethics, such as the mandate to protect the earth and the prohibition against cruelty to animals.”
In fact, Segal says, he’s heard of this soulful, or sweeter riff on latkes before.
“Jews from South and North Africa, their delicacies are cooked in oil, as well,” says Segal. “They’re completely sweet because sugar is more common in a more southerly climates.”
The blend of banana and sweet potato makes Terry’s potato pancakes far sweeter than traditional latkes. In fact, “I considered only using sweet potatoes, but the sweetness was a bit much,” writes Terry.
Still, the sweet ingredients are unavoidable. Without eggs – banned from vegan cooking – the recipe depends on these ingredients’ sugar to caramelize and hold everything together in the frying pan.
In traditional latkes, the onion caramelizes and contributes to sweetness. But there isn’t enough onion in traditional recipes to hold everything together without the egg. And today, the fat-conscious also bake latkes, but that variation won’t get the soul-food version hot enough to convert the sugars.
Crispy, sweet and fried defines much of the taste of Southern food, especially soul food. What better a cuisine to be allied with to celebrate a sweet victory?
LITTLE POTATO AND SWEET POTATO PANCAKES
Serves 4-6.
¼ banana, chopped
3 tablespoons unflavored rice milk
¾ pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and coarsely grated
¾ pound sweet potatoes, peeled and coarsely grated
¼ cup grated red onion
3 tablespoons whole-wheat pastry four, slightly more if needed
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon coarse sea salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil
In a blender, puree the banana with the rice milk. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.
In a large bowl, combine the Yukon Gold potatoes, sweet potatoes and onions, and mix well. Drain the potatoes and onions by wrapping them in a clean dish towel and wringing out excess liquid.
In a large bowl, combine the potatoes, onions, flour, baking powder, salt, pepper and the banana-rice milk mixture.
In a large, nonstick skillet over medium heat, warm 3 tablespoons olive oil. In batches of four, spoon 2 tablespoons of the potato mixture into the oil and flatten with a slotted spatula. Cook until brown on the bottom. Turn and brown the second side until crisp, 3 to 5 minutes each side. Transfer the pancakes with a spatula to a paper towel-lined plate, and drain. Repeat with the remaining potato mixture, adding more oil as necessary.
After draining, keep pancakes warm in the oven.
(Adapted from Bryant Terry’s “Vegan Soul Kitchen,” Da Capo Press, 2009)
LATKES
Makes about 24, serving 3 or 4.
1 pound Russet potatoes, unpeeled, washed well, cut into large chunks
1 large yellow onion (½ pound), cut into quarters
2 eggs
¼ cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
2 teaspoons salt, or more to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper, or more to taste
About ¼ cup vegetable oil
In a food processor filled with the metal blade, process about one third of the potato chunks. At first, pulse the motor, then let it run for longer intervals until the potatoes are coarsely granular. Pour them out into a large bowl.
Process half of the onion until very fine, then stir it into the potatoes in the bowl.
Process another third of the potatoes. Stir into the potatoes in the bowl.
Process the remaining onion, then the remaining potatoes.
In a small bowl, with a fork, beat the eggs. Stir them into the potato mixture.
Sprinkle the flour, baking powder, salt and white pepper over the surface of the potatoes, then stir in.
Heat about 1⁄8 inch of the oil (not all of it) in a 10-inch skillet until moderately hot. Make a test take: Drop the batter off a large serving spoon, or half-filled kitchen utility spoon. If the pancake starts frying furiously, the heat is too high. If the fat doesn’t sizzle immediately, the fat is not hot enough. If the pancake breaks up, or is too thin, or too lacy at the edges, add more flour – start with another 1 or 2 tablespoons.
After adjusting as necessary, continue to fry batter. Serve immediately. Potato pancakes do not hold well.
(Adapted from Arthur Schwartz, “Arthur Schwartz’s New York City Food,” Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2008)
HANUKKAH GLUTEN-FREE LATKES
Makes about 20, serves 3 or 4.
3 large Russet potatoes, peeled
1 large yellow onion
2 eggs
¼ cup Bob’s Red Mill all-purpose baking flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste
About ¼ cup canola oil
Applesauce or sour cream, suggested accompaniments
Using box grater, coarsely grate potatoes and onion into a strainer to drain. Using a wooden spoon, press out excess liquid while still keeping mixture moist.
In large mixing bowl, lightly beat eggs, and whisk in flour and baking powder.
Fold in potato-onion mixture to egg/flour mixture. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Using wooden spoon or hands, mix well, but do not overwork.
In heavy-bottomed, 12-inch skillet over moderately high heat, heat 1 tablespoon of oil until hot but not smoking. Drop the potato mixture into the hot oil, about 2 tablespoons per pancake without crowding them in skillet. Flatten with spatula. Fry until bottoms are golden-brown, 4 to 5 minutes, then turn over and fry until golden-brown and crisp, an additional 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels; season with a touch of salt.
Wipe pan with paper towels. Add 1 tablespoon oil, and fry more pancakes. Repeat with remaining batter. Wipe pan, and add oil before each new batch.
Latkes can be kept warm in an oven at 200 degrees.
Serve latkes hot with applesauce or sour cream. Light the menorah.
(Recipe by Rachel Ellner)
Rachel Ellner can be reached at rellner@gmail.com.
